Puppies

My litters are bred with family homes in mind, for people looking for a good natured, happy and well balanced dog that is also capable of becoming a talented working or active companion.

For me, producing a good puppy starts long before the puppies are born. It starts with choosing the right parents and understanding the dogs I am breeding from, taking into consideration not only their health testing, but from living with them, training, working/competing with them.

Once the puppies arrive, I put a lot of time into their early development. My litters are raised in the home, where they become accustomed to normal household life, people, everyday noises and the other dogs here. When the Scottish weather allows, they also spend time outside in a large play area, where they can explore and experience different environments.

I use a Puppy Culture type approach alongside Early Neurological Stimulation from birth. The puppies are handled every day, including their feet, nails and bodies, and are introduced to a variety of experiences, surfaces, toys, tunnels, soft play and other challenges to help them develop confidence and resilience.

Toilet training starts from around two weeks and continues throughout their time here. I also introduce early recall and appropriate feeding routines, including feeding in a way that helps puppies learn that people approaching their food is nothing to worry about. They are introduced to both raw food and puppy kibble, giving new owners the option to continue with either or both.

I also keep a WhatsApp group for each litter, where I share regular updates, photographs and videos so that owners can follow the puppies as they grow and develop.

Matching puppies to homes

One of the things that is particularly important to me is where each puppy goes.

I don’t allow puppies to be chosen simply on a first come, first served basis, or because somebody has fallen in love with a particular puppy during a visit.

Around five to six weeks, I use observations of the puppies’ developing characters and temperaments alongside the information I have gathered about each prospective owner and their home. This allows me to make what I believe is the best possible match between the individual puppy and the person or family who will be taking them home.

After spending those first weeks with the litter, I have considerably more information about each puppy than someone meeting them for the first time. I can see how they respond to new experiences, people, their littermates, frustration, challenges and different environments, and I use that knowledge when deciding which puppy is best suited to which home.

For me, this is an important part of responsible breeding. I don’t just want to produce healthy puppies; I want to give each puppy the best possible chance of thriving in the home it goes to.

The aim is not to find the “best” puppy. It is to find the best puppy for you.

What your puppy leaves with

Every puppy leaves with a folder containing:

* Microchip details
* Veterinary health check information
* Kennel Club documentation, endorsed for breeding and export
* Five-generation pedigree
* Sales contract
* Puppy information covering diet, routine and worming
* Smart Pup Training Box
* Stormflower puppy fleece
* Natural instinct food puppy pack
*Essential food puppy pack
* Kater4K9 long-term supplement discount
* Continued support from me after your puppy goes home

Puppies are wormed at 3, 5 and 7 weeks and receive their veterinary health check before leaving.

I am a licensed breeder with Highland Council.

Health

The health of my breeding dogs is an essential part of every breeding decision.

All Labrador puppies bred here will be unaffected by PRA, CNM, SD2, MCD, STGD, HPNK and EIC through the health testing of their parents.

Both Labrador parents will have 0-0 elbow scores, low and even hip scores and clear BVA eye examinations.

Cricket my springer is fully health tested, including hips, elbows and eyes. Springer Spaniel puppies bred here will be unaffected by AMS, DAMS, PRA, PFK and FUCO through the health testing of their parents.

I believe health testing is essential, but it is only one part of understanding a breeding dog. I also want to know what that individual dog is like to live with, train and work, and those things are equally important when I am deciding whether a dog should contribute to my breeding programme.

Joining the waiting list

I keep my waiting lists deliberately small, with a maximum of three names for dogs and three for bitches for each planned litter.

If you would like to be considered for a puppy or would like to discuss a planned litter, please email me first with the following information:

Name:
Email:
Location:
Breed:
When are you hoping for a puppy?
Dog, bitch or no preference?
Type of home:
​Garden/land-
Own or rent?
If renting, do you have your landlord’s permission?
Working, active pet home or both?
Do you have children?
Previous dog experience:
Will someone be at home with the puppy? If not, what arrangements will you have in place?
Anything else you would like me to know?

Please be aware that I may ask for proof of identity before arranging a visit.

Thank you for taking the time to answer these questions. I genuinely appreciate the information, as it helps me understand what you are looking for and, ultimately, whether I have a puppy that I believe would be right for you.

Email: [email protected]
Mobile: 07956 653375